Wednesday morning, I’m sitting in a hotel room in Nice. Checkout’s at 11; my train leaves at 12:15 from the station 12 minutes away; and I’ve already had my breakfast after a quick walk to the beach (I’ll post some photos and video of that on Instagram a bit later). Just enough time to get this post finished and send it out to you. . . Here goes:
Yesterday (Monday; I’m writing this on the train, on Tuesday), with my guy back in Vancouver (he’d used more Schengen days than I, so changed his flight to go back a week earlier), I worked to fit everything back into my wheeled carry-on and my Longchamp Le Pliage weekender. I’d sent a few things back with Paul; filled a bag with some others and took those down to the Used Clothes deposit. But I’ve filled a few sketch journals, bought a few items against the cooler days, added to my art supplies kit, and picked up a couple of children’s books. Luggage Tetris occupied an hour or so, and gradually it looked as if it might all fit, even the clothes I’d forgotten, left drying on the clothes rack….
Wednesday (marked by italics): I’d uploaded these photos earlier on the day with the idea that I’d add words and be able to click Publish on the post before bedtime. They’re all photos from the August weeks I was in Rome on my own, reconnoitring, loitering, out before the sun got too hot and the sidewalks too busy.
As I waited for my landlady/friend to arrive for a final inspection and arrangement to leave the keys, I took breaks from the packing to scoot back to photos from the beginning of this long trip. I have quite a few more of windows I’ve peered in throughout these past weeks, but these ones reminded me of the freshness of that curiosity, admiration, and, yes, longing for new things that such displays so often elicit.
In these photos of an atelier that beautifully crafts men’s shoes, it’s the tradition of the métier that impresses me. Custom-built shoes from this shop will surely cost a pretty Euro cent, but presumably they will be built to last (there’s surely a pun there!), and they will be loved enough to be worn, mended, and worn again for many years.
I’m not sure that’s true for all the commodified goods that we were invited — nay, exhorted! — to buy extra luggage space for by the low-cost air carriers we flew with from Edinburgh, to and from Serbia, then to and from Marrakech. Each of those sent emails that insisted we wouldn’t want to miss the opportunity to bring home purchased items simply because we didn’t have enough luggage space.
Hmmmm, we would actually. Not that it hasn’t been tiresome some days to adapt my very limited wardrobe to yet another day of heat (or to stretch its possibilities, as now, for late November days in France). And trying to squeeze everything back into the confines of my cases.
Obviously, I could have fit any of these baubles in my suitcase, and I did pick up two pair of earrings along the way (Cornwall and Marrakech) and a couple of pendants (Belgrade) for gifts.
But if I remember correcntly back to that August morning, I was already picking up a habit of consumption by photograph, if that makes sense. Assuaging that “desire to acquire” with a micro-second of digital magic. Click. and Click again. . . while my brain thinks ahead, moves on. . .
And then the window-shopping becomes something like a visit to a museum or an art gallery, and I simply enjoy the visual stimulation, the information gathered, the witty marketing. . . As in the name of this store for everything kids (toys, clothes, equipment), called Mettimi Giù or Put Me Down! which all parents will recognize, in any language, I’m sure. . . .
I really must have been out early that morning, because there’s no one impeding my view, and that marciapede (sidewalk) is normally crowded with tourists.
This kind of window had an even stronger pull for me when the grandkids were younger. Even then, I limited myself to one little dress or romper from Le Petit Bateau. . . until they were 6 or so, with quite decided sense of their own style. The last few trips I’ve been randomly choosing picture books to add to my collection — no matter their age, kids (and adults!) happily page through these regardless of language). I’ve knit a few little creatures as I travel, and I’ve sent postcards with cool “foreign” stamps. But otherwise, I’m not adding anything to those very full shelves in their rooms 😉
That goes for my kitchen shelves as well, and I wrote these next few paragraphs on the train yesterday: The beautiful China patterns, colours, textures, shapes and sizes. Since that August morning I’ve also ogled almost irresistible choices in the windows of the Bialetti shop just a five-minute walk from our rental apartment. In fact, I was still actively resisting Sunday morning when I finally convinced myself that our condo really has little space for more “things,” and that we rarely have coffee at home….
and then I confused the argument by reminding myself that I was bringing home a very special souvenir of Marrakech: the recipe for Moroccan Coffee, handwritten by a cafe-owner who had learned it from her mother who watched, beaming, as her daughter shared it with me. Three of her five daughters, it turned out, owned and operated the cafe, and the other sisters helped coax that recipe from memory onto the back of our cash register receipt. I’ve taped it into my sketch journal, and honestly, I’m not sure I have a better souvenir of our time away. . .
Toughened my resistance by reminding myself that Café Marocain did not depend for its good taste on fancy branded cups….and, especially, by remembering the five or six train stations I have to navigate with my already-heavy-enough valigia. That argument was the clincher and when I barely managed to heft my Carry-On safely into the rack above my seat on the train to Milan today, I was glad I took it to heart.
But here I am now, Wednesday morning, and after managing to fit everything into my cases (strapped the Pliage onto my wheeled carry-on, and my daypack onto my back) and walking to Termini, hefting the cases into place on train to Milan, then to Ventimiglia, then to Nice, I know that once I get to Paris (my next destination) I have a bit more room in the Pliage. Since I’m taking a taxi to the airport when I leave, I have some wiggle room for a few possible wardrobe purchases. I’ve completely worn out a pair of sneakers here, so only one pair left, and I also have a few wardrobe gaps to fill. We’ll see. . . There’s something almost as satisfying in resisting as there is in acquiring, but on the other hand. . . 😉
Okay, 10:40, and I’d better check out now, get myself to the train station. Please excuse any typos — really no time to proof-read if I’m going to post it today.
xo,
f
p.s. One of the items I might pick up in Paris is a new sketchbook. Can you believe I’ve filled the ones I bought, plus four more I bought or was gifted here? (and paper’s heavy! They account for a pound or two, I’m sure, of my case’s weight!). I wanted to do a quick sketch of the church just outside my hotel room window, and only had a lined Moleskine notebook . . .
I think the recipe sounds like a perfect souvenir!
Wishing you all the best for a smooth and hassle-free trip home. What an adventure you’ve had!
I’m sure you’re really looking forward to getting back home and, once you’re over that discombobulated feeling, you’ll really start that retrospective process. Thanks so much for sharing your journey. Xx
Author
Thanks, Genevieve. Yes, will be very happy to settle into my routine at home although December’s rhythms may make settling a challenge. . . Just thinking of how much the seasons will have flipped for you so that you went from summer straight into winter? Even more discombobulation! 🙂
I like the idea of consumption by photography to reduce the amount of ‘stuff’. I am making efforts to reduce my stuff and struggle most with tools. I’m trying very hard in this area to do no worse than ‘one in, one out’.
Author
“One in, one out” is a good start!
This post reminds me of the final chapters of What Katy Did Next – where she travelled around Europe, a fascinating read. Like you, she spent the last few days before sailing home in a whirl of packing, disposing, last trips to the shops, organising, feeling regret but also longing to see home and family again. I shall miss your updates and home thoughts from abroad.
Oh I remember that book. when I was young. I think it was the first time I’d seen Europe through non-European eyes, and I was fascinated by that perspective. Even if it was very historical.
Author
Well now, What will Frances do next? I think that’s been in the back of my mind — will be interesting moving right into December’s busy rhythms, another year unbelievably just on the horizon. . .
Lovely pictures! I share your love of shop windows – admiring them is as much fun as actually owning any of the items would be. But I would have been tempted by those cameos !
Author
I was definitely tempted by the cameos and had thought to get back to that shop — but also very aware that I don’t know enough about what to look for in a cameo and how they’re priced. Were I to get one, I think I’d want one with a bit of a provenance . . .
Oh, the Bialetti displays! I can’t even drink coffee, and still, I was sorely tempted in Venice….
Thank you for taking us along on your journey! What an amazing trip it’s been – and I’m sure the homecoming will bring mixed feelings.
Author
I really can’t/don’t much drink coffee either, but the cups and the Moka pots, etc. are so seductive!!
I feel the same way about all the travels in which you let us accompany you. . . and yes, preparing myself for a range of responses to being back home. . .
Your travel these past few months sounds like a dream…so many vivid visual memories. The shop window photos are exquisite.
Enjoy Paris and have a safe journey home.
Thank you for your lovely posts on the blog and Instagram.
Leslie
Hostess of the Bungalow.
Author
It’s true — when I flip back through my photos and my sketchbooks it’s a bit surreal to remember what we’ve done — and then, remembering, realize I’ve hardly processed the experiences.
I’m so pleased you enjoyed the travel posts — thank you for the kind words!
As Annie has already said, I’ll miss your updates from Europe. You certainly had us all flinging out the names of possible French destinations on Instagram! I do recognise the beach from your most recent post. It reminded me that I once sunbathed topless there (in 1980). Don’t think I would repeat that now, even if not being well-endowed means that there isn’t too much to sag (TMI, I’m sure!). Bon retour, and bonne réinsertion!
Author
Ha! I’ve never sunbathed topless anywhere anytime, being one who burns in 15 minutes or less! I do appreciate the Italian perspective on aging bodies and beaches and swimsuits though 😉
Have so enjoyed your posts. Will certainly miss all the updates.
You have a lot more willpower than I do. I can’t believe all the ceramics that I’ve brought back
Over the years, and yes, used daily. I seem to need the tactile.
Travel safe…
Ali
Author
I’d say it makes a big difference that you live in a full-sized house — Downsizing and moving to the city condo has strengthened my resistance to acquisition, although I still very much enjoy having aesthetic pleasures in my daily life. Just fewer of them, in smaller space 😉
You are so fortunate to make so many trips to Europe. Each one sounds like something most of us can only dream about. Travel is so very expensive for those of us on small pensions.
Beautiful photos.
Author
So much to unpack in a comment like this, but yes, I’m very fortunate. I haven’t seen you comment here before so welcome; I’m glad you enjoy dreaming about travel through my posts.
Thanks for taking us along on your travels . Hope you have a smooth journey home & a gentle jet lag recovery . Funny to see that cuddly pink octopus in the shop window . I bought one in green for my sisters new grandson . ‘Cliche alert’ – it’s a small world .
Author
Octopi are definitely enjoying a moment (and after reading your comment here earlier, I saw a group of pink ones dancing in a shop window in Paris. Will share on IG later)
Such a lovely post, so many beautiful things shared – the shoemaker’s studio (shoes made there will be everything you said, but the main benefit of hand-made shoes is how comfortable they are; someone I once worked with had large feet and treated themselves to handmade shoes from time to time) pretty jewellery, the gorgeous illy coffee cups, which were all over Sydney a few years ago…so much to admire, photograph, draw and move on. I hope you find some sneakers and one or two other items in Paris. You are doing so very well, especially given how long you’ve been away and how weary you must be from time to time, xo
Author
Hmmm, the handmade shoes! That hits home at the moment because I’m failing to find the pair of black loafers I want, since one foot seems to be fitting one size while the other needs just a bit more room! Reminding myself of the shoes I have waiting for me at home — they’re going to seem new to me now!
I can envision your packing Tetris perfectly. If you need to cheer yourself up a bit you can think of how nice it will be to not have to live with a drying rack constantly on the go.
I thank Signor Bialetti almost every day (and indeed Signor Illy who makes a guest appearance here lol. With the added bonus of the coffee tins which make perfect starter pots for little plants.). The Stranieri Ovunque window display reminded me…I had thought at one point you might dash over to Venice for Biennale…it has been fun over the past months guessing where you might go next!
I’m pretty good about not shopping when I travel but once in a while I say no to something that then stays in my mind for years. Sigh.
Author
I actually use a drying rack at home most of the time, although at least there I do have a choice of using the dryer in a pinch.
You struck a sore point — the original plan for this trip was to be able to visit much more within Italy. That just got away from us with mis-timed availability and length of the rental, with family visiting we needed to accommodate, etc. etc.
Your last paragraph . . . I have some sighing I occasionally do as well. Funny how sticky some things can be. . .
I’m glad that I made my way backward to read this post and look through your window photos. Good for you for resisting things and not making your luggage to heavy to manage. I’m wondering if you treated yourself to a few things in Paris, souvenirs that you will wear for years to come.
I’m curious what a recipe for Moroccan Coffee consists of. I assume that it must be more than the coffee itself. We made Greek coffee this fall in our first hotel and I announced to my husband that we needed filters. We learned from a host at a later hotel that Greek coffee is always like that, with a little thickness from the grounds. While I liked the flavor, I didn’t love the consistency.
I look forward to seeing posts that include images of your sketchbook pages from your travels.
Author
The Moroccan coffee is made with a good complement of spices — all ground together and, yes, you will get thickness from the grounds, but those tend to settle to the bottom.