This will be a long-ish post, but mostly pictorial, and I thought I’d begin by offering you the agenda:
1. I’ll transcribe my journal entry for yesterday;
2. I’ll make a claim about Zagreb (it’s beautiful) and defend it with photos;
and
3. I’ll show you a What I Wore photo and tell you about an upcoming post on Zagreb Style (hint: this city blows me away with a consistency I honestly don’t think I’ve seen in Paris, although I’ll check that impression in a few days).
Proceeding, then, with Item No. 1 on the agenda. . .
To the right of the painting, below the date (June 19th, 2008), I’ve written In Zagreb, just off Ilica near Medvescak — near our apartment at . . . . We’ve ordered Kava sa šlagom both of us, but they have no pastries here, so Paul’s gone off to find some at our server’s suggestion (he comes back in a few minutes with a very decent Apple Strudel, which we share).
Below the painting: Sketched this in pencil in situ but went over it with my Micron 3 pen back in the apartment and painted it here as well. Still debating whether or not I like the effect of the outlining or would I prefer to leave just the softer pencil drawing.
Really good lunch today at Ribice I Tri Tockice. . .
Up the left side of the page: Immediately after this, went to Post Office to mail a postcard to Nola — took a while to figure out how to generate a number for a place in the queue. (EDITED TO ADD: There’s a machine in the corner, with a screen. Tapping the right choice sent a ticket out of the slot below — somehow Pater intuited the right choice out of all the Croatian words on the screen.)
And at the top of the page: Also today — Bought sandals for Paul — directly from the shoemaker — one of the many Cipele off Ilica. He had to go back for them as they were still being made — all conversation done with about 6 words of English, 6 Croatian, a few numerals written on paper, and much “sign language.”
2.
Google Translate tells me this means “My Zagreb is nice, and it is even more beautiful when it is clean,” so I assume this is part of a campaign against littering.
But I’ve seen other translations that suggest that the first “lijep” in this sign could also be translated as “beautiful,” and I have to say that from what I’ve seen, “Zagreb je lijep” — Zagreb is beautiful!
I can’t walk a block here without wanting to take photos of the magnificent architecture. Some of it, yes, has seen better days, but that patina only makes it more appealing to me. And even if you only get to the top of the Old City for a wander around St. Mark’s Square, you will have to agree with me, I know.
Proof:
We’ll walk up the hill toward this magnificent church with its brilliantly tiled roof. . .
Not sure what’s going on with the evening light here, but it’s Craaaazy Good!
In fact, I keep stopping to capture spots like this, the way the last piercing slants of the day’s sun hit a red roof. . .
Time to walk down the hill now, down the sidewalk lined with some gorgeous old buildings I didn’t stop to photograph. Just couldn’t resist this shot — if we’d had time, I’d have scooted back up those stairs to see where, in the Old City, they’d emerge. . .
But no, time to go home. Paul’s new sandals were beginning to chafe his tender feet — (I warned him he should have broken them in with smaller outings or at least slicked on a layer of Glide).
3. Now, onto that photo of What I Wore. . .
This Eileen Fisher linen jumpsuit has been amazingly versatile and comfortable, but I wanted to change up the look the other night, and slipped this mesh pullover (also Eileen Fisher, part of a Big Birthday package) on as a top layer. I loved the way it felt to wear, and I’m convinced that it was more flattering than the full-length photo below shows (and no, I cannot explain that neck posture!). Movement and garment fluidity make such a big difference, but I will concede that the proportions as captured in the photo are not conventionally “flattering.” As well, the white Birks are not the ideal complement to the dark-toned outfit, but I’m a one-pair-of-sandals-only traveller. . .
The Croatian women, though — let me tell you! They would quickly find me the perfect pair of sandals to polish this outfit. I cannot believe the Style Quotient here — honestly, in the area we’re staying, at least, and the areas we’ve been to with Dottoressa (whom I’ll be meeting again today — yay!), I can scarcely go fifty feet without pointing out another example of Elegance or Chic or Street Sass — on women of every age and body type.
I’ve snapped a plethora of photos to show you what I mean — I’m editing them to obscure facial features for privacy right now, but I plan to post them this week.
Meanwhile, I have a coffee, then lunch, date with a good friend this morning, and it’s time to get ready!
Dovidenja!
Frances,thank you for writing and sketching an ode to my beautiful (lijep) city-the beauty is in the eyes of beholder,but your post is full of love and I simply adore to read and to view it from you side
Dottoressa
The linen jumpsuit look perfect ,styled like this (and we,Zagreb women, would approve the navy (or is it black?)-white combination :-))
Love the outfit and the dark tones and I do think the Birks work with it.
Yes, this area of the world is amazingly stylish. When I was working in Kosovo I was permanently amazed at the grace, style, elegance and on and on of the women. I also suspect them of having special classes in walking elegantly. (And the chaps are rather handsome too). Even more so than in France, I felt very very Scottish and homespun.
Beautiful pictures, Frances. Croatia looks enticing. Our list of must see places is getting longer. I love how companionable that sweater is with your jumpsuit. They go together perfectly. And with your glasses!
Re: the neck pose. I do that all the time. And I have NO idea why!
Signed… that other single-sandaled-traveller xo
It all looks wonderful…the beautiful city, your sketches, that outfit. I without fail read the notes on your sketches and then scroll down to the transcription (I do it through habit but I like it…your handwriting makes it you).
Looking forward to your next reports…(and smiling at the thought of you two friends diving into the whipped cream!)
Your EF linens are really lovely…and I am smitten with your travel journal…I can hardly pry my eyes away from it. Will wait for the chic Croation fashion images and hope to be inspired…enjoy your lunch with D.
Zagreb is now officially on my bucket list. It's one of the lovely places I've been close to but never visited.
I'm also looking forward to your upcoming Zagreb street style posts. That should be interesting.
Finally, it sounds like you and Paul are having a wonderful time on this trip. So happy for you both. 🙂
Ann in Missouri
The evening light in your photos is wonderful. Zagreb looks like a place I must put on my list. Love the linen. Only way to go in the heat. Glad you are enjoying your travels. Wonder if we’ll coincide in Paris at the same time! B x
I feel like you might be enjoying this trip as much as I am enjoying your recounting of it:).
I’ve not been to Zagreb & it looks so beautiful . Not intimidatingly grandiose like some cities but people friendly & wonderfully tourist free . Were there fewer tourists than you expected ? I’ve visited Paris but it’s so nice to see other places for a change which are equally lovely & also new to us . The EF looks really good too .
Wendy in York
We will have stops in Dubrovnik and Split during a cruise this October – I will have to make special note of the fashion. (I'm guessing there will be fewer tourists at that time.) Love your navy linen!
Love, love, love your drawing/painting in your notebook, and love in equal measure your outfit. I can see that it looks good in both of your photos. I'm enjoying your Adventures in Linen. It's a favorite fabric of mine, and I travel with it often. Its wrinkles make it more beautiful as the trip goes on, and it wears and wears without needing to be laundered. Because flax fibers are sensitive, I wash my pieces at home on gentle wash and dry cycles or green dry clean my pieces a few times a season. I knew I wanted to go to Croatia before your trip. Your photos have made me yet more certain I'd love it there. Enjoy your remaining time.
Thank you for sharing the beauty of your travels. I'm living vicariously through your paintings, your linen fashion and your photos. May the joys continue…
Charlene H
Hi there,
Croatia looks lovely. Thank you. We were recently in Prague and Budapest and I wondered if you'd been to either of those cities and, if so, how you thought they compared to Zagreb.
Thanks!
Zagreb looks truly lovely. I can imagine you strolling those ancient streets, your eye catching beauty everywhere. Croatia has moved higher on my list of places to visit.