Quick update — I arrived in Edinburgh Tuesday evening — overnight flight from Vancouver to London Heathrow (which, thanks to the time difference, landed me smack in the middle of an afternoon) connected easily (well, except for that long trek from Terminal 5 to Terminal 3 and a decision to search my suitcase — pleasantly and efficiently) with the flight from LHR to Edinburgh where I walked outside the airport and hopped on a tram (for which I’d already bought a ticket online). And just as I walked up her street, my friend, walking toward me from the opposite direction, waved through the gloaming. . .
Lovely homemade soup, a long enough chat to get well caught up, and then a comfortable bed.
Since then. . .
A walk up Calton Hill, just five minutes away. . . (yes, that’s it pictured above)
Quick visits to the National Library and the National Museum of Scotland (a charming exhibition of embroidered samplers by Scottish children/young women gave me a focus in this museum that really deserved a full day) and just today, the National Portrait Gallery.
A very enjoyable walk across the city to meet a friend of my friend for a performance of “tiny plays” written and performed by MFA students inspired by Robert Louis Stevenson’s Songs of Travel — and then dinner at that friend’s charming home afterward and a walk back across the city at midnight! Might end up being my favourite memory of the visit, that walk. . . We got home at One! A! M!! That is not my normal schedule. But I’m thinking a shift might be in order. . .
A visit from an Instagram friend, fellow runner (although mine’s scaled down and hers has scaled up since we “met” online) and blog reader. The three of us started with champagne and nibbles here at L’s rented place and then moved to a French restaurant down the road (I will have to say something later about the food situation here in Edinburgh — range and quality very impressive!). I marvelled again at the way relationships can begin in social media, be formed there into such a solid foundation that an engaged and engaging conversation — seemingly authentic, however problematic you might find that word — happens almost effortlessly when you finally get to meet In Real Life. And on so many topics, not at all easy ones. Teresa May’s choices and Scottish Independence and mother-daughter relationships and the satisfactions of a career and our sense of ourselves (and of others’ sense of ourselves) as we age. . . Thoroughly satisfying. . .
I spent today a bit more slowly — I racked up 11.5 kilometres and 14 kilometres respectively on Wednesday and Thursday, and thought perhaps I needn’t do that today — but no less productively. A splendid afternoon at the Scottish National Portrait Gallery visiting an exhibition of Victoria Crowe’s work. I’ll be posting some photos from that exhibition on Instagram — marvellous work, really. I ended up buying the catalogue in the Gift Shop and then sitting in the Gallery Café with a pot of tea and a slice of Raspberry Polenta cake and sketching, a bit self-consciously of course, but I did it. Felt rather hubristic, to be honest, given what accomplished work I’d just seen, but then I reminded myself of what Madeline L’Engle wrote in A Circle of Quiet. She would locate any hubris in that very self-consciousness; the way to stay humble, I told myself, was just to do the work, to put down lines on the page as best I could, to “throw myself away in complete concentration on something else.” The way my granddaughter did, sprawled on the floor in front of Guo Pei’s couture creations at the Vancouver Art Gallery a few weeks ago. . . So perhaps I’ll share that sketch with you in a future post. Or perhaps not. Depends what I get up to between now and then.
Which seems a good note to end on, don’t you think?
I have two more days here in Edinburgh, and it’s quite obvious now I won’t be able to see as much of it as I’d hoped to. Won’t be for lack of trying though. . . And that means saying good-bye to you for now so that I can get back out there.
Your comments are ever so welcome, always, but again, because I’ll be guarding my Edinburgh days carefully, I probably won’t respond to them. I will read each one, however, and thank you in anticipation. . .
Sounds like a wonderful visit, and, sounds like authentically you. It does my heart good to read this post. That people I enjoy are out in the world enjoying it and making of it where there is to made. I know this sounds kind of like gibberish, but I promise the feeling behind it is articulated much better than these words;).
I guess mean that you are manifesting in a city I am very fond of.
It sounds marvelous.
I love the image of your granddaughter sprawled on the floor to contemplate an exhibit. WHY NOT!!! Oh, to do the same…not quite old enough to be eccentric (and many decades beyond being young enough). Counting the days.
I envy your solo trip.
I think that we have many soul mates around the world. Certainly in my travels and overseas stints I have met many whom I could not help but realize would be best friends if we were to live in the same place. The Internet makes it possible to speak with such like-minded people (for better and for worse), and it's exciting yet unsurprising that you would like those you meet in person. This is a happy/civil corner of the Internet, and I thank you for it.
Wow,it seems like a lot of fun
Edinburgh is beautiful,unfortunately I've never been there
It is wonderful, finding friends in far away places and,simply changing the media,from digital to real life (as Taste of France said),just continue conversation
Have a wonderful weekend,nice weather and just enjoy-you don't have to see all,leave something for the next time
Dottoressa
I love your sketch of Calton Hill. Marvelous!
Solo trips overseas have been a real blessing to me over the years. I had the opportunity to meet up with a favorite Scottish blog writer in York earlier this year. I took the train up from London and we spent a wonderful day having lunch at Betty's, wandering around the town, stopping for another cuppa at the art museum and having the kind of conversations you mention in your post. Neither of us wanted the day to end–it was that enjoyable. Amazing to have these kinds of long-distance, richly rewarding relationships.
Enjoy the rest of your trip. In my mind, I am wandering the streets of Edinburgh with you…down the dark closes and carefully navigating uneven streets; looking up the hill at the Castle. Wonderfully atmospheric. Safe travels!
So good to hear that you're enjoying my adopted city! Would so have loved to join you for that evening. Next time – you'll all have to come up here to experience more of our beautiful country. For the moment tho it sounds as if you'll have plenty to fill your remaining 2 days here. Glad you enjoyed the NMS. Hello to L. from me!
If you can squeeze a visit to Mary King’s Close, you’ll have the best introduction to Edinburgh’s history… and Ian Rankin’s crime novels will paint a rounded picture of the side of Edinburgh tourists don’t usually see. Elizabeth
Such a lot to choose from in lovely Edinburgh but you seem to be making the most of it . The floodlit city at midnight would have been spectacular .
Wendy in York
Frances: Have you ever considered walking the Camino? (I know many peeps who've done it and it's life changing and physically expressive according to them all.) Note: I can't imagine a universe in which I'd do it. Way too unknowable for me, at least right now! But my mother and sister loved it.
Frances: I am so enjoying reading about your journeys, both physical and emotional. I was born in Edinburgh (currently living in Chilliwack). I took hubby over there this past Spring for his first visit, and we had such a lovely time. It is an enchanting little city, with multiple personalities. I love your sketches and watercolours – they convey a soft relaxation of spirit, both in colours chosen and subject matter. Please do keep it up. And the selfish side of me would encourage you to please continue this blog. I suspect we are in a similar stage of life and life’s decisions, and I draw life from the snippets you share from your days. Blessings on you for sharing!
Oh your trip sounds wonderful! I loved Edinburgh last fall, even though I went with a group and really only saw a tiny part of the city. The experience left me with a yearning to go back, to see and experience more, and perhaps to take a walking trip in part of Scotland as well. Future plans….well my plans and dreams always seem to exceed reality. Looking forward to more updates from your trip.
France, you mention an English-language bookshop in Paris (I've never bothered to look up English books there – prefer buying French books that might be hard to find here) but did you find time to explore any in Edinburgh? Think such a visit would be most memorable.
Sorry, Frances!