I mentioned last week that I’ve been having trouble catching a rhythm on the blog during this prolonged travel — I’m also having some misgivings and general reluctance about posting on Instagram (bit of an approach-avoidance situation, really). Having a daughter and granddaughter join us here for a week has exacerbated and emphasized some of what’s bothering me — we’ve been too busy visiting and sight-seeing for me record or report on what we’re doing. Besides which, of course, there’s the privacy issue: family members didn’t sign up for my Social Media!
I’m working to unpack my concerns and to explore possible solutions. Expect more on this topic soon (Hey, don’t roll your eyes like that ;-). But meanwhile, it’s mid-morning, they’re still sleeping, and I have time for a quick post. This platform is not as easy nor as convenient as Instagram, but I value the slowing-down it affords in an alogrithm-directed, fast-paced, content-saturated life. (Yes, I know, I’m “squeezing in a quick post,” which seems to belie my point, but bear with me here 😉
A few highlights of hosting our adult daughter and teen-becoming-young-woman granddaughter here in Rome:
— going into the kitchen quietly the first morning of their visit, thinking I’d better sort out the Bialetti, remind myself how to use it (We’d bought the right coffee grind the day earlier at the Bialetti store around the corner). But she was already there, sitting quietly in the cozy cushioned nook reading her Kobo, a steaming coffee mug beside her, espresso pot sitting on the smallest of the gas burners on the Smeg range top. She was amused that I’d be impressed by her competence and quiet confidence in making herself at home (maybe you will be as well; even more so if you know her). . . But I found it a surprisingly gratifying moment. That is all . . .
–Dinner with the Roman part of the family — so great to see the two cousins enjoying each other’s company, despite the six years’ age difference. And, of course, to see two of our daughters doing the same. Son-in-law and Granddad egging each other on (and the Dad jokes abounded!). Paul annoyed that he’d made what he considers a “rookie move” of ordering his Amatriciana without noticing that it was accompanied by Mezze Maniche (while many approve this sauce-pasta combo, my guy is not a fan of “the thick pastas” and prefers bucatini for the Roman trinity of sauces. . .
–After that dinner in the historic centre, wending our way home, I took my daughter along the wrong path through the Borghese Gardens. Almost halfway home, at that point we were, theoretically, about 20-25 minutes from our beds; it was almost 11, and we set off walking while Granddad and The Teen organized themselves to rent scooters. Somehow, however, distracted by company, thrown off by the intersection’s nighttime appearance, I turned immediately into the path (ignoring or overriding my momentary confusion at some minor differences with the entrance) instead of crossing the road, as I’ve done correctly at least 5 or 6 times by now.
I began to have misgivings about five minutes in, but suppressed doubts by reassuring myself and my daughter that the road (which should have been Via Pinciana, but, in retrospect, was obviously something else!) could still clearly be seen through trees on our right. Headlights of cars, and behind them buildings. . . okay, I don’t remember this, and that’s a bit strange, and hmmm, I’ve never had to cross a railing like that before. So something, I had to admit to her, was wrong, but probably best to keep going at this point because we were bound to come to another of the gates.
And we did. The shocker? It didn’t take long to recognize that it was exactly the same gate we’d left from, about 20 minutes earlier. Yep, classic “walking in a loop.” Very strange, even discombobulating (how often do I get to use athat word?), because it had felt like a straight-ish line, no evident curve — which, I suppose, just means it was a Big Loop. Hence the 20 minutes. . .
Also didn’t take long for me to see the mistake I’d made. So we texted the Two Scooter-ers and set off again, meeting up with them partway through the (correct) central path. And sometime between 11:30 and midnight, in front of the rosily lit Galleria Borghese, another highlight:
— Watching the joyful swirls a heavily caffeinated young woman creates on her scooter at the end of a very long evening in Rome. Almost midnight, the Borghese Gardens almost to ourselves. . . A day that also included her first cappuccino (and maritozzo), her first espresso (one sip, and she’s put those on hold for, maybe, ever), and her first affogato (she’s a fan, taste-wise, but a respectful one. Cautious now).
— This sketch, which she gave me permission to share (maybe because she sketched it with my Koh-i-Noor Magic Pencil. . . we’re making a trip to the nearest art store soon, to get her one of her own)
— And another trip to Orvieto (we visited a friend there last month), and I didn’t have to plan a thing. Daughter bought the train tickets; convinced us to do the guided Orvieto Underground tour that we’d not bothered with on three previous visits; added pappardelle al ragu di cinghiale to the day’s “musts”; bought us tickets to see the inside of the magnificent cathedral. . .
They’ve just woken up (noon! Classic 3rd-day-post-jet-lag sleep-in! That nine-hour time difference can be brutal, and I’m so glad they’ve finally caught up!). So I’m going to stop writing now, find a few photos to throw between the paragraphs, and leave room for you to comment below.
As always,
xo,
f
What a wonderful week Frances
How many things to explore and see through the eyes of your g’daughter
My last stay in Rome was some 18 years ago,we were staying near Villa Borghese and Via Pinciana,I can follow your steps in my mind
xo
Dottoressa
Author
It’s been a great week, K! And I like knowing that you’ve probably walked some of the same routes, xo
This is just lovely! And isn’t it nice to have someone else plan a day from time to time?
Also, if you have a house full of committed coffee drinkers, the coffee from Conad (house brand) is quite good and the right grind for the moka. I think it’s called Classica; the package is red and silver. But wait! How did you get by until now lol?!? You can’t mean you actually washed and dressed and walked to a bar before having your first coffee, all these weeks?!? (Maybe you drink tea first thing. Or you’re more jolly upon waking than I am. But the little jolt of shock I felt had me laughing…)
Author
Thanks you for the info! Only one really committed coffee drinker here, but it only takes one! 😉 As for getting along until now, I am primarily a tea drinker; Paul used to be but then developed a coffee habit more for the getting-out/break it provides. Used to be occasional, but since I joined him in retirement and we moved to a smaller home, it’s become a daily event (I really love some time on my own at home, and he seems to enjoy his cafe time — win/win ;-). I enjoy coffee occasionally, especially here in Italy, but I can do without — and it’s a reflux trigger, so 🤷♀️. Hope that doesn’t mean we can’t still be friends 😂
Oh, Frances! Those photos-all of them:inside the cathedral, the sun-light play, the poignant photo of older granddaughter looking out the window….just all of them. Seeing them, and reading your post was my version of stopping to smell the roses this morning.
These are times your family members will never, ever forget.
I know it has been awkward having to move in and out of the zone for legal/travel reasons, but the discomfort overcome has allowed you to still see the beauty. That is invaluable, at probably a cellular level. So what if you have not found the rhythm to record it all here? It is still happening; it is still enriching, and there are years yet to occasionally pull out some photos and reflect pubically, or privately, about a trip that made an impact on you, and several family members.
I so enjoy the glimpses we see, whenever you feel like showing them.
x A.in London ( currently in Maine working)
Author
I’m so glad to know you enjoyed the post. And yes, if we hadn’t accepted there would be discomfort, we would have missed so much. It’s a lesson I keep trying to reinforce. . . (although by the time we get home, I’ll be swaddling myself in whatever comfort I find 😉
What’s special about. Koh I Nor pencil? I’m interested.
Author
You can see by looking at the sketch — It’s all drawn with a single pencil — the Magic Pencil has four colours merged into a single “lead” and so introduces a random element, quite liberating, imo.
How wonderful!
I have not commented for a while, but always read. It will be hard to settle in when you return home. I found that the hard part of extended travel. Especially the food choices….sigh!
Ali
Author
I’m glad to know you’re here, Ali, and hope all goes well with you on the island. I know you’ve done many trips of long duration, so you know what I mean. And yes, I think that getting back home will stir up a different set of feelings. . . hmmmm. . .
I know very well the tension between doing and recording. Do I really look at, or be with, a painting or vista, or spend time and energy taking a photo, or in your case, make time for a sketch. This slightly uncomfortable dynamic is a small price to pay for the joys of travel, or the delights of visiting an exhibition. These days I often opt to revel more in the being or doing, than recording. Luckily for us, you are a committed maker of records and we are privileged that you share them with us. Your family members are fortunate to share your travels and I know you are delighting in the company of loved ones in spectacular Italy.
Author
You express well what I’m processing. I do value our exchanges here, though, so will keep trying to find ways I can keep the blog going in ways that suit writer and readers 😉
Sounds like the young lady has inherited her grandmothers pragmatism & independence ? Lovely photos again & I especially like the last one – coloured chairs , cobbles & charm .
Author
She’s a gem — I’d love to think she’s caught something (good) from me.
And yes, I too have such a fondness for the coloured chairs (I like your description, with its rhythm and alliteration!)
Very impressive from your teenager on the coffee and scooter front! It must be interesting to see Rome afresh through your visitors’ eyes. Are they noticing different things to you?
Author
More that they’re pushing me/us to do things we wouldn’t likely do otherwise. (for example, might be visiting catacombs this week, despite the number of tourists we will have to jostle elbows with!)
second attempt to read your post. the new kitty was busy exploring my keyboard on his first morning home.
Author
Oh, what fun! Enjoy your new housemate! 😉
How lovely to catch up on my emails today, and sink into fully picturing the experiences you’ve described. (We are laid up at the moment, having had two big vaccinations yesterday. The doctors recommended this but I never felt this bad when I caught Covid!)
I am happy that as I read your descriptions, I can conjure up similar memories from our trip to Italy in May. Makes it easier to flesh out your lovely word pictures in my mind! Thanks for sharing!
Author
Oh, you have my sympathy on the vaccinations — I got a Shingrix combined with the pneumonia one a week or so before I left, and the Shingrix packed a wallop! (still glad I have that layer of protection though).
Would it seem rude to start off with ‘The trouble with your posts, Frances, is…?’ Hmmm, maybe.
But I’ve got to.
The trouble with your posts, Frances, is that they all seem to leave me with so many things to think about, so many moments of me nodding in agreement, so many pieces of wisdom, that by the time I’m processing that and ready to comment, you’ve moved on!
I’d like to just let you know that I really agree with you on the ups and downs of travel, the discombobulated feelings, the things you start longing for back home, etc.
You capture such beauty in your images. Thanks!
PS I absolutely love the energy in your granddaughter’s art!
Author
Well, the trouble with your comment, Genevieve, is that I’m feeling a bit emotional about it — thanks for the kind words and the encouragement. (and I’ll pass your compliment on to my granddaughter, thanks!)