By now you’ve realized that this Paris expedition of mine was really a foil for a Nana visit to a small town near Rome. . . and that this goal was thwarted by the National General Strike situation here in France when the SNCF (French rail) portion of my carefully planned train trip from Paris to Rome via Turin was unceremoniously canceled last week. (They kindly informed me a few days later that I was in luck; I’d be able to use my ticket as planned, to return from Turin — without a moment’s thought about how I might have got to Turin!).
My short trip evolved out of a realization late this summer that I hadn’t had nearly as much time with the Italian granddaughter as I wanted. Our ex-pat family, however, had an extremely busy fall planned, and anything more than an extended weekend together seemed impossible. Clearly, flying to Europe solely to spend three days with a granddaughter was rather troppo, so I invented a need to exercise my solo-traveler skills in Paris. And, conveniently, had enough points for a free flight, although they didn’t stretch to accommodation.
And then the budget got stretched even further, requiring an extra night in Paris and the cost of the EasyJet flight to and from Rome. Let’s just say that those were expensive cuddles, this last weekend. And quickly add that they were worth every. single. Euro!
What did we squeeze into our three days?
Let’s see. . . our first evening, we played some board games, made up stories together, and ate Momma’s very good soup and her chocolate chip cookies, and admired the dramatic lightening, trembled a bit at the very loud thunder, and fell asleep listening to the wind howl. (The storm had earned an Orange Alert with schools closed, although it wasn’t as severe as expected.)
Then on Saturday, Nana and Italian Girl walked to the beach (top photo), just a few blocks from home. Later, with her Momma and Papa, we walked across a bridge for calamari, eaten in sunshine on a terrace, with a beer. On the way home, we stopped for gelato, and somewhere enroute, I tried for an artsy photo (second photo). . . . and in all the spare minutes, we seemed to be reading every book this Nana has ever gifted the girl (photo above is just a small sample– seriously, I read and I read and I read. So happily).
And Saturday evening, pizza from the good place just ’round the corner, and then she and I watched the first half of Elf. She’s probably still laughing about her favourite parts. . .
Sunday, we headed to Sutri to see an Italian version of the classic Christmas markets.
First challenge was finding a parking spot. And next was working our way through the crowds filling the narrow streets of the “Centro Storico”
We were entertaining some doubts about the attractiveness of the seasonal attraction. . . when we spotted the Carousel. Much more enticing than Babbo Natale or La Befana. . . .
Then just beyond the carousel, a trio of street performers performed feats of derring-do, integrating music and comedy into their routine. And calling for volunteers from the crowd. And, failing that, coming ’round and choosing a volunteer. Our daughter is a good sport, but I know she had no idea what she was in for. Skip over to my Instagram account to watch the dramatic video of a very nervous-making finale to an entertaining show. . .. (you’ll need to “swipe left” for the video). . .
Then hamburgers (have you ever had a hamburger that included broccolini? surprisingly good!) and patatine fritte on picnic tables set up in an ancient square, loudspeakers constantly booming out the numbers of whichever food order was ready or advising which ticket numbers were now up for a turn in La Befana’s Casa. . . .
We posed for a three-generations photo in front of La Befana’s hat. Five showed me the right way to pose . . . and then changed her own usual hands-framing-the-face posture to a variation on the theme. . .
There was also some Vin brulé, good for warming hands and tummies, and another attempt at artsy photo-taking (remember? second photo above? again). For artsy video, you’ll have to pop over to Instagram. . .
A fountain built at the site of the Antico Lavatoio (ancient washhouse). . . .
And then an easy evening at home. I packed, Five and I watched the rest of Elf, and then bedtime and I read her the last five books I’ll read her for a few months. . . .
The next morning, I rode with her Papa to drop her off at school, reminded her we’d see each other in Sicily in a few months, and then it was my turn to be dropped off, at Leonardo da Vinci airport. . ..
where these sculptures, realizing a number of his inventive sketches, were part of an exhibition celebrating the 500th anniversary of his death.
And later in the afternoon, I flew back to Paris, on the 21st-century iteration of this ancient dream. . . .
And I’m not at all sure that I will be able to post to the blog again before I fly home in a few days, but I’ve been taking advantage of the good walking weather to get out with my camera. I was over on the Rive Droite today admiring the Christmas windows and staying clear of the manifestations some five kilometres over. . . .
I’ve already posted a few images from my Paris day over at Instagram. I hope you enjoy them, and I look forward to your comments here and there.
In the meantime,
xo,
from Paris. . . .
That was a lot to do in so few days but I'm sure you had a lot of fun! Your little one is growing. All those books. I find that all kids love Mo Willems. How long are you in Paris? You could never grow tired of Paris! The windows! Are there still strikes? I really like your red beret. Enjoy!
For all the logistics and annoying extra costs, it does sound like a perfectly wonderful visit once you arrived. Spending time around Christmas with a granddaughter, and a daughter, surrounded by Italian Christmas festivities? And bookended by solo time in Paris. Lovely.
Visiting your granddaughter was short and sweet indeed! She loves books, wonderful way to spend time together.Not a little girl any more
It is sad when strikes (or other problems) change plans-luckily you were able and brave to find a way to Italy
Nevertheless,it must have been very stressful
Enjoy the rest of the journey
xo
Dottoressa
I'm so glad you found your way to Italy. What a lovely visit. I hope the rest of your trip is happily uneventful!
A lovely trip, with just a taste of some of the people and places you love. I wonder if you follow the French Girl in Seattle blog? She's a French native, back in Paris now, and seems like a person you would enjoy. Per her blog, two of the Metro lines—the ones fully automated–are running these days.
Wow you have been busy making each of those days so memorable for you and your granddaughter. I hope the rest of your trip is not hampered by strikes or street violence. Take care.
I think it's absolutely wonderful that you flew over to see your granddaughter! They grow up so very quickly and moments like you experienced will hopefully linger in her memory for a very long time. Loved the books – many of those stories are familiar around here, too. Enjoy Paris!
Those smiles say everything. Hers, yours, your daughter’s. Money well spent I’d say. You must feel a bit bereft now. But still … there is Paris as a consolation. XO
So glad you got to visit with your granddaughter despite the strike and costs. In the end it is all worth it for the connection. Those memories and photographs are precious, sometimes beyond what we can know. Loved the realizations of the da Vinci sketches at the airport. Thank you for sharing your trip with us, Frances.
Nothing quite so special as seeing a grandchild–especially when they live so far away and visits are not as frequent as one would like. Very familiar with the steps one will take to see them (e.g. my oldest two grands were in Japan for several years when they were little; now in late teens/20s, they still remember I visited them–so worth the effort.). Happy you were able to overcome the strike issues (e.g. expense and frustration and worry) to spend some one-on-one time with your granddaughter and her momma and papa. Looks like you made the most of your time together.
Safe travels back to Vancouver.
What a lovely visit, despite all the curve balls thrown by the strike. Your granddaughter will cherish memories of your visits to her always and it’s clear that spending time with her is very important to you. Well done!
Mme: One more day. . . And yes, there are still strikes, and traffic is a mess. Luckily, I've never much bothered with bus or metro here and am used to walking. And walking. And more walking 😉
Lisa, Dottoressa, Jen: Yes, despite the (manageable) challenges, the time in Italy was beautiful. Thank you!
Elle: I used to follow her occasionally, but had forgotten about the blog and will have to peek in again. I know those two lines are running, but I think they're quite crowded and I don't mind walking. My big concern is just with getting to the airport on time! 😉
Thanks Hostess, Lorrie, Sue . . . and Mary (Japan! A long trip! And nice to know they remember still) . . . and Maria, thanks!
How completely wonderful that you were able to have this time after all. Wishing you as smooth homeward travels as possible.