So. . . that walk through Rome. Happened two weeks, I told you about part of it last week, and finally, I’ll show you our destination. . . .
I must admit that it was really my destination, but my walking partner happily accommodated me. There was a misunderstanding to clear up when we reached the Pantheon, however. He thought I just wanted to get to it again, to see it from the outside. . .
And honestly, when I saw the long line-up waiting to file in, I did think of abandoning my goal (and if I had, we could have zipped over to the nearby Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella and bought a refill of my beloved Melograno soap, which would almost have been ample compensation for missing a visit with the oculus).
But Pater pointed out that the line was moving steadily and he steered us over to its terminus, clearing a path through the crowd of Selfie-takers, past the horse-and-carriage waiting to haul weary tourists to their next destination.
And Pater was right. The line moved quickly, and we were soon inside. This was our first time visiting on a sunny afternoon, and I don’t mind saying I was thrilled by the effect of the sun powering through that rooftop opening (the oculus) to make its mark on the mesmerising geometrics of the inside walls. The shadows make performance art, a meditation on time and on the relationship between light and dark. . . Even in the fifteen minutes we spent inside, we noted the change in the position of the shadows, the ancient clock telling a familiar story.
This was my fourth visit, or fifth, to the Pantheon, and I hope I’ll go again. And again. The first time Pater and I were there, rain pounded through the oculus, streamed along the marble floor to the drainage holes. An exhilarating and near sacred experience, despite (or because of?) the noisy crowds and the recorded voice that brought the crowd to silence every minute or two, held it there for a few seconds before the volume was regained.
Different every visit. . .
I’ve been to Rome a few times now, and I haven’t “done” the Vatican other than walking around St. Peter’s Square two or three times (once with a Three and her Papa and a giant Christmas tree — now that was fun!). And nothing I’ve heard about the inarguably fabulous art there makes me think I’ll ever submit to the experience of those line-ups and that herding.
But once you get inside the Pantheon, there’s no need to keep up with the crowd or to move along.
Despite the crowds, there is still space for contemplation (although yeah, sure, keep your bag zipped and closely held and don’t forget to move your wallet from your pocket to a safer spot)
I sat and sketched, from one of the pews, on two rectangles I’d pre-painted earlier in my sketchbook. I’m not sure how I came to draw one of the shadowed rectangles as high and the other one as wide — when I saw what I’d done, I checked what I was looking at and couldn’t understand the difference. I can only claim that there’s an optical illusion that begins to happen, looking at the wall from top to bottom and/or from side to side. The rectangles I’ve sketched are from different parts of the wall, so the shadows create strikingly different graphics.
Afterward, stopped for a drink on a poorly chosen terrace before ending our walk at Roma Termini station, I sketched a row of windows, with heightened attention to the play of shadow. . . .
And now, if you’ll excuse me, I think there will be some shadows to attend to here in Bordeaux, thanks to the sunshine finally making a commitment. There has been sunshine in almost every day here, but it’s often been quite grudging and has too often been replaced by grey skies and rain. It’s 9:30 as I finish writing this, 20 degrees Celsius outside already, and really, I can’t bear to be inside a minute longer.
We’ll chat soon, okay? The Comments situation seems to be working better now — I’d love to hear from you.
Love your sketchings, especially the row of windows.
Somehow I was very fortunate in visiting the Sistine Chapel. I was there very early, didn't have to wait long and walked directly to the chapel, bypassing everything else along the way and had the place almost to myself for a bit with a very few other people present. That in itself was glorious. However, this was not quite 20 years ago, so before social media turned every beautiful location into a selfie-serving nightmare. Otherwise, I don't 'do' crowds.
Just saw this in the NYT this morning and thought of you… nytimes.com/2019/05/23/travel/what-to-do-in-bordeaux-france.html
Seems like such a rich experience, both visually and philosophically. As though one could muse and be provoked to thought for hours.
Yes,yes,yes to the Pantheon, one of my favourites. In Rome last year we did a Friday evening tour of the Sistine chapel, (I think they run every Fri evening in June) still busy, but nothing like the day time queues. I'm most envious of your sketching talent, my eyes just don't "see" the nuances. As usual, I'm having a great vicarious holiday, thank you.
Jules
Mary: Thank you! And how fortunate you are to have a memory of visiting the Sistine Chapel at a time when you could have the time to take in what you saw there. Now I'll have a look at that NYTimes article.
Lisa: I could sit there indefinitely. . . .a feast for the senses and also for mind and spirit. . .
Jules 4a: Thanks for the tip about Friday evenings. I'll try to remember that for next time, although I might still prefer the quieter corners of the city 😉
I don't see myself as having a natural sketching talent, although I'm building some skills, slowly. I might have a natural bent to seeing nuance, though — but I must say that sketching tends to build that. Looking, in order to draw, means that you begin to "see" more and more. . .
Apologies for my lateness but I can’t not comment. I love this building. It’s been 45 years since I was in Rome but I remember my visit to the Pantheon very clearly. Such a spectacular structure and it rained while I was there too! Thank you so much for taking me back there and for all the glorious photos,
More apologies – Anonymous above is me, Maria
The Vatican and the Sistine Chapel are not in your Slow Travel Mode. We went on a cruise ship tour. It was so busy that we could not stop walking to look at anything. I'm not a fan of Big Art because the crowds get to me. My daughter jokes about my reluctance to visit the Louvre but there are so many smaller museums to visit. Your sketches are always enjoyable.
Maria: How wonderful that you have such a clear memory of the Pantheon — I'm guessing that there might have been fewer tourists there and perhaps a different mood prevailed, but I suspect there was much that would have been the same. That rain coming through that hole in the roof, running along that amazing marble floor. . . .
Mme. I'm the same way, although I'll suffer crowds to a certain degree for some big expositions (I loved the Basquiat/Schiele show in Paris last fall, even though I had to wait outside in freezing weather for 45 minutes first and then be part of a large crowd. But from what I've heard, one is herded along, has to keep moving at the Vatican, and I need to be able to stop and take in what I'm seeing. If I can't, I'd just as soon study the art online or in a book. . . Heresy, gasp!
I once read (somewhere?) that one of the author's most treasured travel experiences was standing in the Pantheon in wintertime watching snow drifting down from the oculus.
Sigh!
Ann in Missouri
Ann, I read that as well — I believe it was in Anthony Doerr's Four Seasons of Rome. So unusual — must have been a magical moment.
How I envy you. That sounds like a totally blissful situation.
Now I'll almost be hoping for rain when we're in Rome in October!
Funny about the NYTimes 36 Hours in Bordeaux piece — just at the end of last week I was telling my husband that I'd like to go to Bdx because I'd been reading a friend's (forgive me for being so presumptuous!) blog about what it's like to spend time there, and how charming, etc. etc and then the Sunday times had that piece. I like to think it's fate pointing the way. A trip to Brittany and Bordeaux, or Bordeaux and SW France/Basque Spain sounds like a wonderful itinerary.
Finally, we too had a magical Friday evening visit to the Vatican Museums several years ago. The key is to book online entry for the first timeslot in the evening, and then upon entry to walk briskly to the Sistine Chapel with no stops or distractions……you can take your time. against the crowds, on the way back out. Thinking seriously about booking early morning entry tickets for our visit in Rome, right before an 11:00 scavi tour.
The Pantheon "window" sketches are wonderful, and I wholeheartedly agree with your comments on learning to look and see being enhanced through drawing, and then in turn, enhancing your drawing skills.
Adele: I love that you told your husband about your friend's Bordeaux experience — happy to be considered that 😉 Definitely consider a focus on SW France/Basque Spain — Bayonne is lovely and we've dipped across the border into San Sebastian, which is wonderful (oh, the food!) — still haven't got ourselves to Bilbao, but I'd love to get to the Getty someday.. . .
Annie, It was good. . . 😉