Biking to the Market. . . Somewhere near Bordeaux. . .

First, a possible suggestion for those of you unable to post comments here and on other Blogger blogs:  Fellow blogger Mardel deleted Blogger (ha! tongue-twisting repetition, sorry) from her Google account, and then re-installed it — et voilà, she’s now leaving helpful comments here and elsewhere, and perhaps you might be able to as well. Worth a try, right?

This week so far in the Slow Travel department. . .

Monday, catch-up day: laundry, blogging, emails, a bit of writing, a bit of knitting, writing and mailing some cards, and then some shopping in the afternoon, dinner with French Netflix.

Tuesday, yoga at a studio ’round the corner, stretching body and mind (trying to concentrate on the French is an added challenge as is trying to watch Isabelle –from whatever position I’m twisted into — for cues when I haven’t understood/heard the French.) Lunch en terrasse at a little spot we like near Place Camille Julien. Then before dinner, we picked up bikes for Wednesday’s excursion.

Wednesday, as you may have seen from my Instagram account, we rode our rented bikes to the market at Créon, along the beautiful Roger Lapébie Trail.

 From “our place” to Créon is about 27 kilometres, so the round-trip makes for well over twice as much distance as the longest bike ride I’ve done this year. The last 8 or so kilometres are a very slight but steady uphill, with a definite incline in the last kilometre, but most of it is comfortable, easy cycling.

Of course, I had excuses to stop for the occasional photograph, always on blogger duty. . . . This tall fellow, not too far from Bordeaux. . . .of course this giraffe called to mind Helen Dernley’s sculpture, “Dreaming Spires,” which I saw in Edinburgh last fall.

 And then Pater volunteered to take a photo of me with said Giraffe (note my recently purchased Uniqlo sweatshirt — thanks for the inspiration, Sue)

A few kilometres later, at Latresne, we stopped for coffee at the very cute bar/café/brocante. The building was once La Gare (the station) on the old train route that’s been converted to the Lapébie bike path.

The tables and chairs have a charmingly funky brocante appeal, and the service is always friendly, the coffee good. . .

and it even arrives with a little love. . .

While we waited for our coffee, I got out my little sketchbook and tried to draw that table and a chair or two. . .

Tried a few times, as you can see, and I think I finally got close to expressing the perspective (left margin, centre, was my best effort — after several frustrating tries. Presumably, this might become more intuitive if I practice enough. For now, it makes my brain hurt!!

But we still had another 12 kilometres to go, so back on the bikes. . . .and I managed about 1.5 kilometres before I had to stop for an astonishing abundance of yellow irises. Apologies if you’ve already seen these photos on Instagram. . .

After that interlude, we didn’t stop pedalling until we were almost at Créon and Paul had got way ahead of me on the hill. What a good spot he chose to wait,  holding out the very welcome water bottle right in front of this field. . .

There are only two horses in the photograph, but there were five altogether, and of course sketching them gave me a chance to prolong the inevitable last push. . .

They moved frequently, and I know I need to spend more time figuring out their heads (the one in the box, lower right, doesn’t belong to the horse next to it, by the way. I just grabbed that space to make one last effort to get the head shape — I think it’s the best head on the page. . . .

The Créon market might be my favourite — because it’s open and because it’s in a large square surrounded by big old buildings, most of which are fronted by a portico. It’s always a lively market and every time we’ve been there, we’ve seen live chickens (there were laying hens for sale this time, and many, many chicks as well). Artisan olives Paul couldn’t resist and linen dresses and tunics that tempted me and beautiful cheeses and fragrant Moroccan food to take home for dinner and artichokes and sweet small strawberries and hand-worked leather bags and bargain-basement loafers and sneakers and socks and underwear and bunches of thick white asparagus and a plethora of straw hats and a great display of fish on ice which I couldn’t resist trying to draw in my little book. . . .

 trying to be as discreet as possible, but I still caught the attention of that stall’s vendors, one of whom excused herself when she passed between me and my google-eyed subjects. “Est-ce que je vous dérange?” I asked her (Am I bothering you?). “Non, non,” she answered. “C’est juste que nous sommes curieux.”

So I showed her, a bit defensively advising that I’m still very much an amateur. She nodded an acknowledgement, a tentative approval, but mostly I sensed a bemusement that anyone might use their free time to hang around markets sketching fish heads on ice. Fair enough. . . .

Time, then, to stop the sketching and once again enjoy the crêpes at the little place on the corner.  Ah, but yesterday — May 1st! — that required much patience. We’ve never seen the crêperie this busy, although we’ve visited on market day several times. Our “serveuse” finally managed to take our order about fifteen minutes after we’d sat down; it was half an hour after that before our food arrived, and the same was obviously happening at all the tables. But whether it was the warm sunshine or the holiday’s festive mood, no one seemed to be fussing much. We did joke a bit with the couple at the adjoining table that they must still be growing the wheat for the flour, but generally, folks just seemed to settle into their conversations and enjoy the prolongation of their lunch. We marvelled especially at two nearby tables, each filled by a family of four, the two children at each table perhaps 6 to 8, waiting contentedly while they sipped a drink and anticipated their favourite crêpe filling.

So I settled into my waiting as well. . . one more quick sketch. . .

And then the crêpes arrived, and were eaten, and our long ride home, easier because downhill, tougher because my left knee decided enough was enough. . .

Today’s been another story, and I thought I was going to tell you about my frustration with the watercolour I’d hoped to sketch, about my punishing self-talk because I’m struggling with perspective (sight-lines and horizon lines and converging lines and vanishing points, UGH!).  But instead, I’m going to pat myself on the back for writing a blogpost, and I’m going to remind myself of the pleasure I took in the simple ink sketches in my teeny portable sketchbook at the market.

And tomorrow, I think I’m going to try again. . .

For now? I’m tired and I believe it’s bed-and-a-book time.

BonBonne nuit, from Bordeaux. . .

18 Comments

  1. Georgia
    3 May 2019 / 12:25 am

    You have reminded me of how much time I once spent drawing horses (as did my daughter after me).

    I especially like your fish on ice!

    • materfamilias
      4 May 2019 / 6:58 am

      Was that about the time you were reading anything related to Misty of Chincoteague? Just me? 😉

  2. LPC
    3 May 2019 / 3:20 am

    I love the little studies. I have always loved the preparations for paintings, sculpture, etc. almost more than finished works themselves.

    • materfamilias
      4 May 2019 / 6:58 am

      Me too! I was delighted to see Manet's study for Olympia last month at Musée d'Orsay. . .

  3. Mary
    3 May 2019 / 11:23 am

    Taking the time to capture moments from your travel and learn from each sketch is what is important–that, and not letting the inner critic have a say. Enjoy.

    • materfamilias
      4 May 2019 / 6:59 am

      Thanks Mary. I need all the fortification I can get against that noisy inner voice.

  4. hostess of the humble bungalow
    3 May 2019 / 3:59 pm

    Loving your sketches and the real life scenery is beautiful too!
    You and your husband adapt so quickly to village life in France…you could be two locals out for a day of cycling and coffee.

    • materfamilias
      4 May 2019 / 6:59 am

      Thank you! We're so enjoying ourselves. You must really be getting excited about your own upcoming travels.

  5. Taste of France
    3 May 2019 / 7:53 pm

    Sounds like a wonderful market. Ours is in three parts, not far apart. Food–mostly produce–around the fountain; food–mostly meat and fish, in the covered Halles; non-food–mostly clothes and housewares on the boulevard. It's efficient the days when I am on chauffeur duty for the sports trainers not far away. But efficiency isn't much of an atout when it comes to markets. The mix and chaos are part of the charm.
    I bet the fishmongers were secretly thrilled with your sketch.

    • materfamilias
      4 May 2019 / 7:01 am

      Actually, now that you mention it, this one does work its way down some of the adjoining streets, but moreso later in the year, if I'm remembering correctly.
      I can imagine that for daily life with work and family, etc., efficiency becomes important, but we have the leisure to enjoy the charm, the mix and chaos as you say.

  6. Sue Burpee
    3 May 2019 / 9:38 pm

    Ha-ha… I though I recognized that sweatshirt. And just as I was peering at it I read the text. Bet it goes great with your pink brogues. Btw… I always love looking at your sketches.

    • High Heels in the Wilderness
      3 May 2019 / 9:39 pm

      Must edit… I thought. Ha.

    • materfamilias
      4 May 2019 / 7:02 am

      It does! It goes very well with my pink brogues. Thank you for the inspiration.

  7. Anonymous
    4 May 2019 / 6:32 am

    Sorry, but correct is "Bonne nuit"!

    • materfamilias
      4 May 2019 / 7:02 am

      Yes! Of course you're absolutely right, and I should have caught that. I'll go edit it now. Thank you!

  8. Anonymous
    4 May 2019 / 4:06 pm

    Oh, Frances! I'm so enjoying your posts from France. After my French studies pour la première fois this past winter in NOLA, I understand the French sprinkled throughout your posts. [BIG HAPPY GRIN]. You're helping me fantasize about my trip to Alsace and Paris this fall.

    Ann in Missouri

  9. Anonymous
    5 May 2019 / 1:31 am

    My first comment disappeared but I'll try again! I just wanted to say that I first stumbled across your blog via the Roger Lapébie path number of years ago while doing a google search on "cycling near Bordeaux." This post brought back many memories of our own trip – the cafe in the old gare, Créon, etc. The giraffe is new though!
    Frances in Sidney

    • materfamilias
      5 May 2019 / 9:56 am

      Thanks so much for persevering with this comment, Frances. I didn't know that's how you'd found your way here, and it really pleases me to have a reader who shares this memory. . .

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