My last post came to you from Haarlem, as we were hurrying out the door to catch a train. If you’ve been following on Instagram, you already know that train took us to Brussels where we spent a lovely day and a half.
And we’re just finishing another lovely day and a half spent in Paris where we’ll soon be packing up to head to yet another train station. . . . Trains, the only way to fly! (pace the old Western Airlines commercial).
Given our limited time in each of the cities we’ve stopped in so far, you’ll understand that I haven’t much time for blogging, but I thought you might enjoy these photos from Brussels. We have many reasons for hoping we’ll get back to Brussels some day, and I’ll share more of my impressions of the city later, but for now I’ve sorted through photo files with a focus on the architectural wealth, particularly of Belle Epoque/Art Nouveau design.
You can see that Pater had to exercise patience when walking with me — more than once, I had to cross the street to try for a better view of a balcony or a 3rd-storey mosaic.
I don’t know anywhere near enough about Art Nouveau/Moderne architecture, but apparently Brussels is known for its examples of the style. This website outlines the economic, social, and political congruence that led to the fin-de-siècle (end of the 19th of course) preference, and it offers more addresses.
If we get back to the city, I’d be sure to have a map and track down some of the buildings more systematically (and with a better idea of what details to look for).
But relying only on my feet and my eyes (and Pater’s patience) was not a bad approach for a first, quick visit to the city.
And a very nice way to slow a four-hour train ride (from Amsterdam to Paris) down to three days. . .
Gloriously organic lines in the grillwork, sensuously curving stonework, beautiful floral mosaics. . .
And striking deployment of strong, simple geometrics as well.
I’m afraid that will have to do for now. Breakfast to eat, bag to pack, a train to catch. . . Next stop, though, and we’ll be staying put for weeks and weeks. I hope we can chat more then. Meanwhile, I do read your comments, appreciate each one very much,and I’m sorry I can’t spare the time to respond to them.
À plus tard. . .
EDITED: I thought I’d published this in the morning, before we caught our train, but checking now that we’re settled into our digs in Bordeaux, I see that I saved but didn’t post. Time for bed and a book now. Good night 😉
The delightfully named Square Ambiorix, near the EU, is lined with Art Nouveau marvels. Victor Horta was the major architect, and his house is a museum. He also did the Solvay House on Avenue Louise, around the corner from my old apartment. The area around the Ixelles ponds is lovely, too. Must see the Magritte museum! And so many more…
I used to go tango dancing at a place near the Gare du Midi, which was then a very bad neighborhood. It was in a ruin of a building, lit by candles. Lovely. And there was another place called la Roseraie. And one out in the burbs, near an auto plant, where you had to go through an unmarked door behind the bar in a very Route 66-style burger restaurant, and there was a HUGE dance hall. I was only there six years, but I know BXL like the back of my hand. Happy to tell you my secrets! Le Chien Vert for fabrics…oh much more.
Lucky you! I should have said where we were headed and got some pointers — although with just the one full day, we were very happy just to wander. Unfortunately, since we arrived Sunday afternoon and left Tuesday morning, we hit museum closing days straight on — I'd really wanted to see the Bruegel painting that features in Auden's poem and William Carlos Williams's. . . And I would definitely have visited the Magritte. . . We stayed at a hotel in the Louise neighbourhood, perhaps trod routes you used. The tango dancing sounds magical! We will have to consult before I go back again! 😉
It was an excellent idea to split the train ride- Bruxelles is wonderful and as opposed to Taste of France,I've never been there
Dottoressa
It's a good way to see a bit more as we go, although of course it only allows a quick glimpse of the city. Next time I'd love to go when the museums are open — they have some treasures there. . .
Bruxelles looks very appealing thanks to your photos. Never a city on my ‘to visit ‘ list but perhaps it should be. Enjoy your sojourn in Bordeaux. B x
There's much to recommend it!
Thank you — so far so good here in BDX
Wonderfully slow way to travel, Frances. We move a lot when we travel, but over the years have learned to craft our days to arrive at our destination in time for a stroll about town, then tea or an afternoon nap before dinner. Everyone finds their own ways to make their journey work for them, I think. Brussels looks wonderful. I've never been.
Exactly — gradually we find what works, how much moving around our individual systems can tolerate and our relationships as well. I don't love the days of packing and unpacking in small hotel rooms (in fact, we're careful not to unpack very much, and reassure ourselves that no one else knows we've been wearing the same jeans day after day in three different cities . . .
Looks like you are having a wonderful trip. My husband and I were in Bordeaux last month for 5 days. We rented a car and toured the wineries near St. Emillion. I wish that we had set aside more time to see the town of St. Emillion. It seems to have been frozen in time in the Middle Ages. Enjoy your time in Bordeaux.
St. Emilion is lovely — we drove there from Bordeaux four or five years ago. This whole area is wonderful to visit, isn't it. . . .You would have seen Spring arriving in March–did you heat some of those surprisingly warm spells they experienced here?
Brussels is a great city although it takes a bit of time and effort to truly enjoy… getting away from the Grand Place and the centre of town is important but where to go isn't obvious. A few years ago I stayed a month in the Watermael-Boisfort area and having to use transit to get around made a very positive difference in experience the whole city and environs. Also, went on a fabulous art nouveau architecture tour!
We were lucky that the hotel I'd booked was in the Louise neighbourhood, a pleasant kilometre or more away from the crowds of the Grand Place, so that we could walk there to check out the centre and then walk away after. I'd love to do an architecture tour there, and I take your point about the vantage points of transit — a month, lucky you!
Love the photos and the glimpse of a city I've never seen. Perhaps I need to go.
So much art and architecture — you'd love it!
Thank Pater for his patience, these photos are show the fascinating detail of the glass, masonry and ironwork. Such a pleasure to see the city on foot thanks to you.
I will pass along your appreciation 😉
I know you also like to explore a city as a pedestrian — so many more details catch our attention that way, and time to observe them.
Belgium is a delight – I was bowled over the first time I visited. It gives me the strangest feeling of dislocation in time and space – in time to the 1903s (a combination of the brick and the typeface on the station signs), and in space to a distant steampunk planet, which I wrote about in my blog. ( occasionalscotland.blogspot.com/2011/12/skywatch-friday-de-countrified.html). I have to admit however that my heart in Belgium is given to Antwerp. Having spent a week there with a work conference at the University of Antwerp, I was totally smitten. Even signed up for a distance learning course in Dutch (which I must return to this winter – it went very fast for my ageing brain!!). Returned twice since then and planning another visit.
Well, of course I'm only envious about your Bordeaux séjour! What a lovely, lovely time of year to be there. Looking forward to your photos on IG and musings here. Hope your stay brings you both much happiness!
I've never visited Antwerp, but I can imagine that the opportunity of a whole week there would give you ample opportunity to fall in love. Is that city as completely bilingual (or tri?) as Brussels? We were impressed that all the street signs are in both French and Dutch, and communication in French was so easy.
And you're right, we're having a very good time already here in Bordeaux. Walking past Rue Albert de Mun now, I think of it as your street 😉
Antwerp is resolutely, uncompromisingly Flemish. In fact when travelling by train between the two cities there is a point where the train announcements switch into Flemish (direction Antwerp), and French (direction Brussels). I have never spoken French in Antwerp, but since I don't like speaking English in a non-anglophone country if I can avoid it, learning Dutch/Flemish was attractive. Flemish is so tantalising – you think you should be able to speak it so easily, since there are so many similarities with English, but it takes some work!
Thank you for greeting Rue Albert de Mun for me!