Since we last met here, I’ve flown over the Tyrennhian and then the Ligurian seas, the island of Corsica, all bathed in sunshine. . .
flown over the Alps into France,
deeper and deeper into whiteness. . . . of snow-covered peaks, at first, and then, gradually, of clouds that look enchantingly fluffy and white when viewed from above . . .
but that were dispensing Wet Grey over London as we descended into Heathrow airport, the pilot applauded for maintaining a straight course along the landing strip despite the buffeting by a healthy wind. . . .
The next flight, nine hours in one of the inside seats in that central set of four in a 747, shall not be spoken of because I try to avoid profanity here. I managed to avoid using it on that plane against the woman who reclined her seat back right up to my navel as soon as we were airborne, kept it that way through meals, the only concession (sarcasm alert) being that she bounced it regularly as she struggled for the precise sleeping position she wanted. . . . And thus ends my experiment with resisting that extra fee to choose a seat before check-in! (I’m just over 5’3″, not skinny but small enough, and I figured I could tolerate anything for nine hours, trying to stick to a modest budget for this extra travel). Not enough room to remove my shoes, let alone to stretch my back, keep the blood flowing, reach my knitting from its spot under the seat above (Hers! Hiss!!). But there was ample room for my carry-on, even though I was in the last Group to board, and I did survive the nine hours, and really, as gruelling as contemporary air travel can be, I must admit it’s a marvel as well. Still hearing the echoes of Darling Four’s “I love you, Nana” . . . Imagining the desolation a daughter’s trans-continental move meant only a few generations ago. . .
And I managed to sleep six hours last night (albeit broken up into two shifts: 9pm-1am and 4am to 6), had a decent nap yesterday, and I’m beginning to sort photographs and gather thoughts and play in my sketchbooks with ways to render memories. I warn you there will be more posting about this trip as I integrate my experiences with my life back home (where Christmas is hurtling towards us even as the lengthening nights counsel us to slow down, to take it easier).
As well, I have an exciting post planned for early next week — an interview with a woman who, with her husband and dog, moved to France earlier this year after eleven years in Seattle, which she’d moved to from New York, and where she opened a jewelry studio in Pioneer Square in 2010 — which is how I came to know her, I believe, through her Instagram account.
I’m fascinated, always, by accounts of ex-pat life — I have long had a secret yearning to try it out, but the reality of family makes it unlikely I will manage that this lifetime. A vicarious ex-pat life, though? I’ll follow that with avid interest. And if that ex-pat life evolves to include building a small business scouring Lyon’s flea markets and vintage fairs to bring back to life and offer on Etsy? Let’s just say that I’ve “Liked” every one of Joanna’s My French Maison posts, and I suspect the many Francophiles among you will as well.
I had intended to wait until next week to introduce Joanna to you, and I’m still going to wait to publish our interview then, but meanwhile, I know that some of you are looking for special gifts for special people — and that Recycling vintage treasures will appeal to many. On her latest post, I see that My French Maison still has a few of the vintage chandelier crystals — and Joanna remarks there that there’s still time enough to ship these for Christmas. . .
I suspect she still has some of these classic French torchons (linen tea/dish towels) as well, and I’m quite sure she has just the cutlery pieces to glam up your table settings with some eclectic sophistication. . .
Just to be very clear, I am telling you about Joanna’s shop only because I admire the enterprise (as well as the boldness of such a big lifestyle move in mid-life). I’m not receiving any remuneration for this, except for the satisfaction of supporting another woman and perhaps of helping some of you find the perfect gift.
(and in keeping with the theme, my friend Sue over at Une Femme has posted a collection of gift suggestions for the Francophiles in your life.
Off to feed my sourdough starter now — that first batch of bread will help compensate for the croissants I’m missing. . . And I have a Three coming to visit later this morning, so I’ll be poking holes into oranges for his chubby little fingers to push cloves into. . . one of my favourite, simple, pre-Christmas traditions.
And you? What are you up to as that calendar leaf turns over to reveal the last month of 2018? If you visit Joanna at her French Maison, do say hello from me, tell her I sent you . . .
xo,
f
FYI – I bet you can make kick ass croissants too!
I've never tried — aren't they super fiddly? (and luckily, there's a French ex-pat who's set up a Patisserie on the next block from us and does beautiful croissants daily — although I don't dare eat them that often! 😉
I understand air rage as I don't recline my seat at all. I'm not quite 5'4" and if the person in front reclines, the movie screen (if there is one) is almost in my lap. My thought is if you're paying for economy, reclining should be discouraged. I would have loved to be an ex-pat. In my imaginary life, I could have settled in Paris and worked at Shakespeare and Company, married a French man and opened my own bookstore in the Marais (before it was trendy). Have you ever visited Heather Ross's store in Vancouver. She lived in France (married) and moved back (unmarried) to open a shop of French treasures. I think she's mostly just art and photography now. I'm glad to hear you're getting sleep after so many different experiences.
I will occasionally recline my a notch or perhaps two, but I always look behind to check out the situation and never for more than an hour. (this is either because I don't sleep much on a flight OR it's the reason I can't 😉
I've never been in that shop but have peered greedily in the windows and promised myself to get back there. Not much room in our condo for too many of such treasures. . .
The worst part when the seat in front of you is reclined is that you can't scratch your leg or pick up anything you drop on the floor (this was a frequent problem when our kid was little), or get into your bag by your feet.
It's not at all like the golden olden days.
As for expat life, it has highs and lows and is definitely the best way to understand another culture. I've done it in three countries (Kenya, Belgium and now France). At some point, I seem to have gone from being an expat to being an immigrant. Which is fine, too.
Yes! That's what I found so hard — especially since the bank of four seats only had three under-seat compartments which were thus at an angled remove from whomever was using then. . . Not golden at all.
And that would be an interesting border to cross, the one from being expat to being an immigrant. . .
I feel your pain. Never again will we fly without advance seat booking and a bit of an upgrade – just a tad more leg room. Not being able to get out of my seat, or stretch when I want to makes me panic.
My husband and I do play the game of – what if, or is it possible – perhaps if we were younger. It would definitely be France though.
Ali
Yep, that's what we've been doing the last three or four years, that little bit of an upgrade — the set of two seats rather than three, where the plane narrows at the back being favourites (even worth being next to the bathroom lineup).
And I wouldn't even have needed that if I could at least have had the aisle seat, so I'll pay to ensure that next time. Hard not to resent the nickel-and-diming by the airlines, though. Fine on the budget ones, but tough from a line that used to symbolise decent service. . .
What a dreadful flight. It never ceases to amaze me at just how repellent some folks can be, particularly in an airplane. I used to fly a great deal for work and often was bumped up in service, but sometimes the attitudes and lack of manners of the 'entitled' ones were worse than those in 'steerage'. So unnecessary. I am old enough to remember when you dressed in your best clothes to travel–especially for transatlantic flights. My mother always wore a hat, gloves and a lovely suit. Polite behavior was a given. These days, it simply surprises me if people behave. Sad. But, I am sure being around 'Three' will help knock out some of that travel trauma.
My three seatmates in the row of four were all lovely, and I think many passengers were polite and thoughtful, but in such cramped conditions the "social contract" needs to be more strictly observed, imho.
You're right — the time with Three helped 😉
I am so sorry for, and embarrassed by, the miserable conditions you had to endure on your flight from LHR back to Vancouver. Before the U.S. deregulated the airline industry, I worked several hundred 747 SEA-LHR-SEA polar flights as a Pan Am flight attendant or purser. It pains me to see how uncomfortable those trips have now become for economy-class passengers. I wish I could transport you back in time onto one of Pan Am's 747 polar flights between the West Coat of the U.S. and Europe, as they were a real treat for passengers. They may have offered fewer options for inflight entertainment, but who cares? No matter where they sat onboard, passengers were comfortable and well taken care of. And, when I flew (1970-78), economy (or charter or student) fares were low enough that most people could choose to fly to/from Europe if they wanted to. (Most of my flights had no empty seats.) Now, conditions in economy on long-haul flights can be so physically challenging that even I, an inveterate traveler who flies economy, hesitate to take one of those flights. If you are tempted to upgrade to premium economy, check to see how much more seat pitch you will gain. (Usually, the seat width is the same as in regular economy.) Many, perhaps most, people find extra pitch in premium economy well worth the price of the upgrade on a long-haul flight.
Leslie, I really appreciated your comments on my Instagram post the other day — and I'd recommend them to others who experience extended discomfort during a flight and extended fatigue afterward — as you point out, it's much more than the time-zone difference.
I traveled on a charter (PWA was the chartered carrier) from YVR to LHR (or was it LGW?) in '67 on an 18-hour turbo-prop flight that stopped for refuelling at Frobisher Bay. My parents had outfitted me in a custom-tailored plaid skirt suit for this big occasion of flying solo to visit my English relatives. There was a movie shown during the flight — on a single screen, if I remember correctly, and there must have been a projector and actual film. . . I also vaguely remember the option of a Bingo or similar game partway through, and that cards were available for those who wished to play a hand of solitaire on their tray table. . . . And even as recently as 15 years ago, the carry-on that now goes in the overhead bin could fit underneath the seats on the flights, and then have the footrest pulled down — footrests!! at under 5'4" I absolutely adore footrests which make such a difference to comfort.
Thanks again for weighing in and offering the benefit of your experience.
Hi there. I had enjoyed reading about your travels. Oh dear re the flight home. I'm at the stage in life now where I would have asked the person to please put up the seat during the meal time. I also have to be mobile during a flight longer than 2 hrs – walking – stretching exercises – standing – flight attendants are very empathetic with me. I always try for an aisle seat. We readers have definitely learned a lot now re seat location – paying extra etc. Thanks for sharing.
Normally I’d probably make that request as well, but there were indications it would be better for all if that sleeping dog was let lie…🙄
Flying used to be such a treat, but are just endured these days. Why it should cost to choose a seat is beyond me. Along with the more crowded conditions some passengers seem to have lost consideration for others. You're home now and as the house fills with the delicious scent of bread baking, I hope you are feeling more rested.
Feeling much better, thanks Lorrie
I flew home from Sicily with a seat in the same configuration as yours and the same type of woman in front of me. She had the bulkhead, but apparently that was not enough. Her seat was down as soon as the pilot said it was ok. She and her husband ended up with 3 seats because the woman between her husband and herself opted for an upgrade to first class to escape them. At one point my shoe fell off and the kind woman next to me had to find it for me. Even when she walked about the cabin with her fussy baby, the seat remained fully reclined. I only survived by offering to walk around the cabin her with fussy baby and she was pleased as punch to let me!
The contrast between your gracious behaviour and hers—so striking! And what you modeled is lovely
Re your flight-it is completely inadmissible. I'm really sorry.
Did you comment,say something to her or the flight attendants?
Dottoressa
She and her husband had already been difficult re having a mom and baby moved into their row which they’d hoped to have to themselves despite not having paid for anything beyond a seat each. Then she was miserable to the mom struggling to keep her crying toddler secure during takeoff. It really seemed better to endure, although I did ask a flight attendant to have her put her seat upright for the light meal pre-landing.
I admit, I am the world's biggest baby about long flights. If I can't finagle a way to fly business class I may just decline all together. I applaud you for sticking it out and not bashing anyone over the head. xoxox. Love your airborne photos though, because you're right, it is heart-widening to see the world from so high up.
So far the rewards of travel (especially seeing my granddaughter) are enough to compensate for the stress and discomfort…
Thanks so much for the mention, Frances!
I'm glad you survived the hellish flight and are overcoming the time change. It's really horrible how airlines have reduced the seat widths and pitches, especially on those long flights! People on planes who have no consideration for others in such a tight space really annoy me!
But I'm really glad you were able to spend time with precious family.
I'd actually been following Joanna Morgan Designs on Instagram for some years now, and had no idea how I'd connected. Now I know, and will check out her latest enterprise!