I uploaded these photos yesterday afternoon, after a day of walking in the chilly rain to visit a few shops — one related to reading (The Red Wheelbarrow English-language bookstore), the other related to writing (L’Ecritoire, a charming stationery shop). As well as walking and looking and shopping, I ate a splendid lunch and dinner and might tell you about those later, but at the moment, I’ve just returned from a marvellous visit to the Fondation Louis Vuitton (way over in Bois Du Boulogne) where I’ve feasted to post-satiety on Egon Schiele and Basquiat sketches and paintings.
I’ve taken many photos, and I’ve made a few notes, and I hope I’ll be able to tell you something about my visit later, something about the overwhelming collection of images, but for now I seriously need a nap. . . (In fact, I woke up this morning wondering if I might just give myself the day off, in deference to fatigue, but I’d bought a ticket to those expositions, and I’m very glad I made the effort. Well rewarded that was. But I’m tired now. . .
So all I have for you is a stroll through the Luxembourg Gardens — which happens to be right across the street from The Red Wheelbarrow Bookstore. . .
I’ve been here in every season now, and I never tire of strolling through the park, people-watching, admiring the landscaping, the most recent plantings.
I posted a short video of the Fontaine de Médicis on my Instagram page. As I suspected, that’s a much easier way for me to post a short record of my travels, but I want to be sure those of you who prefer to follow the blog will see separate (or extra) images and text. Hence these photos.
I do hope you enjoy this visit to one of my favourite spots in Paris. I love that it’s free, as well. So many things are, here, if you like to walk and to look. . . You could sit on one of these chairs and read, for example, but you’d want a big warm shawl!
I do wonder if Pan feels the cold a bit — he’s cavorting so energetically that he probably generates his own warmth. . . or is warmed by the colours of the chyrsanthemums below — I love that planting!
A stark palette of blacks and whites and greys, but then those leaves, raked up and ready for composting. . .
I find so much inspiration here in the various palettes. . .
Here the chrysanthemums, and a fairly similar palette but such different proportions (swapping out black for light) — and the sky!!
But really, I have to nap now. . . . Sorry to chat and run, but needs must and all that. . .
xo,
f
I so appreciate your efforts here, made even when you would probably rather be napping! I can't look at your photos without feeling that old tug on my heart, that yearning to go back to Paris one more time. A strange homesickness for a place that was never my home. (Of course, I can't look at your photos of Edinburgh without feeling a new yearning to see it for the first time!)
Oh, I understand that yearning well — there are a few places I've been that I suspect I won't get back to yet still feel a pull. And those places we hope to stay at least once. . .
The Luxembourg gardens are my favourite place to visit in any season. I have not been in November but in January the chrysanthemums are replaced by primulas. Take care not to overtire yourself because you will return and there are always new expositions. It's not 2 months since I left Paris and your photos make me greedy to go again. I too have Paris homesickness.
I like the idea of chrysanthemums yielding to primulas.
I'm giving myself a slow day just outside of Rome today rather than the day I'd planned in the city — no good trying to do it all, as you say. . .
An old and dear friend lives not far away. It seems to have been grey and drizzly every time I made it there, even in the summertime, adding to the atmosphere.
I haven't been to Paris in at least a decade, so hoping to return soon.
So gothic and mournful and joyful all at once!
just so!
Lovely photos & not a soul in sight
Wendy in York
If I'd snapped faster, there was a group of very fit "pompiers" (firefighters) running the perimeter of the park. And there were quite a few other park visitors, but not so many that I couldn't wait to get the snap without anyone in it. Honestly, I'm always impressed by how well this park is used, whatever the weather.
Our own plans for a return visit to Paris have been put on hold temporarily, but I am happy to travel vicariously via your stunning photos!
Frances in Sidney
I'm sorry that your visit has had to yield to other pressing priorities, but I'm glad you're finding some pleasure in my pictures.
So calm,so beautiful….wonderful photos
Dottoressa
Thank you!
Looks chilly but atmospheric. No one there in your pics but I imagine it a favourite for beautiful but doomed couples in fine wool overcoats on dank afternoons exchanging enigmatic bon mots as they finally part forever.
Or maybe not.
Anyway – moving on. Am intrigued by the green boundary in photo 2 and along the canal/water feature. Is it a carefully clipped hedge or is it ivy trained along wires or old stone walling?
Oh yes, the beautiful but doomed couples. And absolutely, fine wool overcoats are just the thing to wear when exchanging enigmatic bon mots. Love it!
Yes, it's a living swag of ivy trained along wires — I've never paid much attention to it before, but it caught my eye this visit, looking so much like a Christmas decoration. . .
I have never cared for chrysanthemums but that urn full of tumbling gold is spectacular. What a splendid time you are having.
Isn't it inspired, that planting? And the landscape planner surely thought of the background, the various ways an eye would compose. . .
Love the idea of wandering into small shops–especially the types you visited–and then strolling through the Luxembourg Gardens. I've been there in late November, too. Wonder if the Christmas market stalls are open on the Champs-Élysées yet? Found some lovely scarves there.
Safe travels.
It's an atmospheric city in November, isn't it?! To be honest, I rarely go to the Champs-Élysées, although I popped up there briefly on a Métro change — didn't spot the market stalls and I'm guessing it might be a few days early. . .
I am not really mad about chrysanthemums either, but I must admit that in your photos the colours of the flowers correspond perfectly with the shades of the leaves everywhere.
Being very busy with the preparation of my last class this year, I enjoy my little breaks, armchair travelling with you. Thank you.
I'm coming to appreciate their colours more and more at this time of year — and their texture as well, the interesting shape of their leaves. . .
And you're welcome — pleased you enjoy.
I am also not a big fan of chrysanthemums, but they are used to great effect in those garden photos. I have only been to Paris in the spring and summer, but now I want to go in the fall. It is such a northern city. Thanks for the photos, and I am looking forward to hearing about the meals! Brenda
It is a different city in the grey months, stripped to reveal something essential, and the beauty might be bleaker, but it persists.
And I did have a meal or two worth recounting . . .
Lovely account! I've been to the Fondation LV twice, and both times been blown away by the quality of the exhibits.
There is that weird moment when you travel, when you've been thinking you've adjusted to the time difference, and the sledge hammer hits, right? I generally have the bad habit of trying to power through, but on my last Paris trip, in January, I finally concluded that I'd been there enough times that I didn't have to spend every moment trying to see things.
I've run 'round the building before, never been inside — did you happen to see that Shchukin collection/Icons of Modern Art exhibition of last year. We just missed it and it sounded amazing. . .
Yes, this is the solution I've arrived at, the recognition that I've been here often enough and that there are surprising rewards for slowing down, letting some "musts" fall off the horizon. Just writing a post about something along those lines.
I did see the Icons of Modern Art exhibit last year – it was brilliant! One of those times we could have spent the entire day there.
Oh, so very, very beautiful! Thank you for the images from a late November trip to Paris. Really love them.
Ann in Missouri
You are very welcome. Thank you for appreciating them. xo